The Kimberley is one of the most popular destinations in Australia. And no wonder, as the Kimberley boasts some of the best scenic spots in the world. And is very accessible to all budgets, especially that of the 4WD traveller.
The World Heritage listed Purnululu National Park is one of the best of the scenic spots. This is the home of the striped black and orange rock of the Bungle Bungles.
The Bungle Bungle Range is formed from sandstone and conglomerate rock, with layers of black and orange bands. The black bands indicate the presence of cyanobacteria that grows where the sandstone holds moisture. The orange bands of sandstone are drier and don’t retain the moisture necessary for the growth of the bacteria.
Travellers can best appreciate the beauty and extent of the range from the air. Scenic flights are available from within the park from Bellburn airstrip and helipad. The rock mass formed about 360 million years ago. Over time it was uplifted into a mountain range, and joints or cracks were created. Weathering and erosion, water and wind hastened the process over the last 20 million years. As a result, cracks formed into the deep gorges, canyons and the spectacular sandstone formations seen today.
There is plenty to see, especially for hikers. The view from Walanginjdji Lookout, accessed by an easy 500m return walk, will tempt any traveller to explore further. From here, find panoramic views of spinifex-covered ridges and majestic cliffs of the Bungle Bungle massif to reward your efforts.
Echidna Chasm
Reach Echidna Chasm, a deep and narrow gorge, from a 2 kilometre walk along a creek bed. Livistona Palms stand out against the 200 metre high cliffs above. Once in the chasm, the sunbeams create a luminous orange glow in the deep red rock. But you need to be there for an hour or two around mid day for this spectacular display.
Cathedral Gorge
In the south of the park take the walk to the exceptionally beautiful Cathedral Gorge. The walk follows the creek line deep within the sandstone to the amphitheatre at the head of the gorge. Here a small pool reflects the vertical cliffs above. The steep rock faces show evidence of waterfalls that flow in the wet season.
Piccaninny Creek will lead the keen hiker through Piccaninny Gorge, a total of over 30 kilometres. Most visitors choose the much shorter lookout walk which affords great views of distant beehive formations.
How to get to Purnululu National Park
You can reach Purnululu by road from the Great Northern Highway, either 300 km from Kununurra or 160 km from Halls Creek. The track passes through private property and is only open to 4-wheel drives and off-road trailers with single axle. A speed limit applies along this track. The approximately 50 kilometres can take up to 2 to 3 hours to complete. It crosses several creeks (many with water in them) and passes through hilly, windy terrain.
The Visitor Centre provides information about the park and the activities available, but no food. All supplies must be brought in with you. Park entry fees and camping fees apply and can be paid at the Visitor Centre. The park is only open during the dry season from early April until mid October.
There are two pleasant campsites in the park – Kurrajong in the north and Walardi in the south. Both offer toilets, bore water and firewood and are suitable for vehicle based camping with tents or camper trailers. John and I camped in a most pleasant treed site at the Walardi campground.
Sunset is a spectacular time in the park when the sun’s golden glow highlights the colours of this amazing landscape.
Have a look at our video Colours of the Kimberley and see not only Purnululu and the Bungle Bungles, but also many more highlights of the Kimberley.