Arnhem Land is a land of mystery and a place of fascination for all who travel there. So we joined a tag-along tour to find out more about this secret place.
Our journey into East Arnhem Land began at Katherine and from there we headed for Nhulunbuy to explore the eastern coast first.
East Arnhem Land road
The first day’s travel was unremarkable and we arrived at Mainorou Store, our overnight camp stop, in the late afternoon. This was a very pleasant campsite on the riverbank but, at this stage, not enough facilities for the number of travellers staying there.
The road to Nhulunbuy might be dry, dusty and long, but it comes with many surprises, as our leader, Neill, showed us with a stunning view along the way.
Neill nicknamed this Jurassic Park, which offers a view from the top of the escarpment to the valley below. The travellers spotted animals and birds in the distance, with the feral buffalo prominent unfortunately.
We pulled off the main road for lunch at a place where the tallest termite mound of Arnhem Land is. This may not be the tallest, but it is the tallest I have seen.
In and Around Nhulunbuy
At last we reached Nhulunbuy and our camp ground tucked behind the Walkabout Lodge. The Lodge offers powered sites, toilets, showers – most welcome after the dry and dusty roads into town –washing machines, a swimming pool and a restaurant meal. From here, you can take an easy stroll down to the beach or walk to the township shopping area.
Our stay in Nhulunbuy included a tour of the local beaches, finishing with a barbecue on the beach. One of these was Macassan Beach, where Macassans came to trade annually with the indigenous population. Popular items for trade were trepang, turtle shell and pearl shell and these were sold to Chinese traders.
Behind the beach, there are the Wurrwurrwuy Stone arrangements, a heritage-listed indigenous site. The stone pictures at this site are unusual as they depict historical objects rather than ceremonial or sacred images. Stone arrangements include a Macassan double-hulled canoe, houses, trepang fireplaces and drying houses and other images relating to the Macassan trepang industry.
Rainbow Cliff, or Banambarrna, is another location where the Maccassans came to harvest trepang or sea cucumber. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the colourful cliffs to their best advantage, but we did see a sea cucumber or two. For centuries this slug-like creature has been part of Chinese cuisine, valued for its culinary, cure-all and aphrodisiac properties. But that night we settled with sausages as Neill and Gail prepared a barbecue tea for us all.
We visited the site of the Rio Tinto Alumina refinery. This closed in 2014, resulting in 1100 workers, about a quarter of Nhulunbuy’s population, losing their jobs. A giant conveyor belt carries the mined bauxite for more than 20 kilometres to the port. From here the ore is shipped out to be refined overseas. Further bad news for the mining town is that the mine is due to close in 2030.
Neill promised us a surprise and Wathabuy and Goanna Lagoon provided that. The fast-flowing stream has carved a narrow line through the sandstone, and now this is a delightful spot for an invigorating dip. It was also safe from any unwanted wildlife.
Yirrkala features a well known indigenous community-controlled art centre and the amazing works of art on display there. The current centre comprises two sections, the Yirrkala Art Centre, which represents the artists who exhibit and sell contemporary art, and the Mulka Project, which incorporates the museum.
We spent some time in this complex, particularly enjoying the art on display, and in the museum.
Communities of East Arnhem Land
Bawaka
After several days in Nhulunbuy, we visited Bawaka, an indigenous tourism venture, operated by Timmy Burarrwanga, a Gumatji man, and a cultural leader and chairman of the Yirrkala Dhanbul Aboriginal Corporation.
As there was no room for our camper trailers, accommodation was ad hoc in shared rooms or mosquito-proof tents. We also had flushing toilets, refreshing cold showers, flow-through air-conditioning and a waterfront view. What more could you want? It was paradise.
That evening Timmy and his brothers performed a traditional welcome to country ceremony with smoking leaves and face paint. All the group enjoyed this experience.
Another surprise when we discovered we were going for a swim – at the beach – where crocodiles, sharks and stingers were present in the water. According to the locals it is safe to swim here when a section of beach is cut off from the main body of water at low tide. Although they posted a lookout on top of the cliffs to be sure.
This is Lonely Beach, an idyllic place, with a colourful backdrop of red sand above the grey rock formations and the inviting, crystal-clear water.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the beaches, throwing in a line, or just doing nothing. And so ended another day in paradise.
Baniyala
Back in Nhulunbuy we prepared for the journey back to the Stuart Highway. But first we headed for the camping ground at Dhuluwuy and the community of Baniyala.
The campground was set amongst a pleasant, treed area on the edge of low cliffs above a sea view. Again there was a toilet and shower block with plenty of cold water on tap. And sometimes tree frogs to share the roomy cubicle.
Next day, we drove to Baniyala to meet and be welcomed by the community. This was the beginning of learning about their culture, as we visited several significant spiritual and sacred sites on a tag-along tour.
There was some bush tucker to try, before we foraged on the rocks for mud crabs and turtles. Then for lunch we headed back to our campsite where we pooled our resources. On the menu was mud crab, boiled turtle eggs and amazing dampers made by Baniyala’s head woman.
That evening we went back to the Baniyala community for some entertainment. After a demonstration of didgeridoo playing by a couple of young boys, we found that we were the entertainment. With expert dance coaching everyone had a lot of fun as we learnt how a man can dance and how a woman should dance.
This was the end of our East Arnhem Land adventure, but our experiences with the communities here were a highlight of our tour.
See all our Arnhem Land adventures in our video Arnhem Land Adventure